The relationships between places and past events shape human identity and provide memories that are a reservoir of pain and joy; they connect the chain of time between past and future. In addition to other characteristics, my place of birth, beliefs and ethnic roots all constitute a part of my identity.
So if, to the rest of the world, the drying of Lake Urmia is only the elimination of a blue spot on the maps of Iran and Earth itself, for me and the other people who have lived there, its disappearance is akin to losing some part of our identity, our memories and our very personality.
My mother’s family – my grandmother, grandfather, mother and uncles – were born and lived in Sharafkhaneh port, which used to be one of the heavily traveled touristic villages on the north coast of Lake Urmia. My grandfather had built an inn beside the lake, and my uncles were sailors. Less than a decade ago, my grandfather hosted dozens of tourists a day in the summers, with his two sons taking them on boat tours. His children have since left to pursue work elsewhere.
The lake’s ducks, flamingos and pelicans have vanished, too. But three swan-shaped paddleboats still remain, a reminder of the time when the summer days were filled with children’s laughter and so many holidaymakers came to the inn that some of them had to sleep under the almond trees Lake Urmia is located in the northwest of Iran, between two main provinces of West Azerbaijan and East Azerbaijan.
It was the biggest salt lake in the Middle East and the sixth-largest saltwater lake on Earth. During the past ten years, approximately 80% of the lake has dried due to climatic changes, poor agricultural water management, the damming of rivers that fed it and the extraction of groundwater through many thousands of illegal wells. The disappearance of the lake endangers not only the agriculture and tourism sectors, but further the basic ecosystem of all the areas that surround it. Where once there was water and rich black mud that was famed for its healing properties, now there will be an increased frequency of salt storms, which have serious health effects including respiratory and eye diseases.
My childhood in Sharafkhaneh seems like a long time ago. The motel is deserted, and the almond trees have shriveled. The port today is a sparsely populated village where most people are old, and it no longer resembles the place where I left my childhood memories. The sweet days are gone.
Is it too much to dream that the lake could come back to life, and that the flamingos and happy families could return as well?
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